|
||
As a keen cyclist, I’d always been a little sneery about e- Boasting around a third of the Dolomite mountains, which also span the provinces
of Belluno and Trentino, South Tyrol is dramatically beautiful - Towering almost 3,000 metres above sea level and rooted in a light bedrock, they look like gigantic daggers. From the Auronzo hut near the village of Misurina, located a two hour drive from the regional capital of Bolzano, you can take a circular trek of about four hours around their bases, craning your neck as you go. Just over 40 kilometres northwest of the Tre Cimes is another of South Tyrol’s key
natural features. Lake Braies - There’s no shortage of accommodation in South Tyrol, but for an activity- Led by General Manager Manuel Steinmar, who represents the third generation of Quelle’s founding family, the staff are demonstrably proud of their region’s beauty, and ensure that it forms the focal point of a stay at the hotel, which takes its name from the German for “source”. With connotations of renewal and returning to nature, “quelle” is just right. Activities
for guests are arranged every morning and range from e- Hilltop reached, with a little (OK, a lot of) assistance from our battery- Cold cuts of local ham, cured sausages rustic bread and beer proved ideal fuel for
the return- Sports enthusiasts now also have a new range of action- |
|
Staying indoors at Quelle, you can unwind in the Alps’ only snow sauna, or have yourself
pampered in one of the thirteen treatment rooms, as I did when I reluctantly submitted
to a full- During the three- Nestling under the austere peaks of the Austrian- of the Alps. Fascist dictator Benito Mussolini launched an aggressive “Italianisation” of the region throughout the 1920s and 30s, encouraging Italians from the south to settle there and banning German in schools and workplaces. The Italian- Evidence of this mixed heritage is plentiful. Until it joins the motorway about an hour outside of Venice, the road from Santa Magdalena weaves through the countryside like a giant serpent, slithering between mountains and pretty Alpine villages. Despite having been officially Italian for a century, South Tyrol still feels predominantly Austrian, with chalets and cows in the fields and lots of German signage. When I’d walked up the road from the hotel into Santa Magdalena one afternoon, the barman had asked me what I’d wanted in German, not Italian: caught off guard, I had to use my rusty GCSE “skills” (I think I scraped a C) to order a beer. The conversations going on around me were all in German, too. Was this really Italy? Today, although most South Tyroleans’ first language is German, the majority are
content to be part of Italy, albeit one which gained considerable powers of self- As Italy’s wealthiest province, South Tyrol has been called upon by Rome to support the poorest regions in the south, which separatists say violates their cherished autonomy: currently, 90% of taxes paid in South Tyrol are spent in the same region. Catalan separatists make exactly the same complaint about Madrid, arguing that the central government takes too much tax revenue from one of Spain’s most prosperous and independent regions. As well as a rich cultural legacy, there is a tremendous sense of space in South Tyrol, as if the notion of a big city has not yet arrived in this part of the world. It’s one of those places where nature, not humanity, dominates - |